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Press brake bending is simple stuff: An arrow-shaped punch presses a sheet metal blank into a v-shaped die, thereby forming an angled bend. Or maybe, if we are getting adventurous, we could imagine something like a gooseneck punch making return flanges, but that is stretching it as far as it goes, right?
No, not quite. Press brake tooling has come a long way in recent years, and can do a lot more than it used to, and probably a lot more than you think. Some of the more interesting techniques include wiping, rocker dies, 3 way bending and elastomer bending.
A wiping operation consists of more than one movement, unlike simpler shaping methods. A special die set is used, where the bottom die has movable elements. As the punch moves down and executes the first part of the bend, the bottom element receives the blank and is pressed down on its springs. This motion activates an element on the back of the die, which now moves in and executes the second part of the bend. A good example of the application of this technique is the making of a radiused return flange: The blank is pushed down on the first, springloaded element, and the resulting downward motion bends the blank to a right angle with a radius at the bending point. The second element then comes into play and finishes the job by folding the edge of the blank over, creating a return flange in the process.
Rocker dies are essentially simple dies - with a twist: The top die has a built in 1-axis joint, which allows it to enter a bottom die with a partially obscured opening. This makes it possible to form a channel in one pass, even if the flange is very long - something that (depending on the shape of the part)might not be doable in a traditional channel die set. In that case, rocker dies provide the benefit of reduced setup time and fewer operations in order to shape the part.
The term 3 point bending is used about a special type of die set, in which the bottom die has an element which can be adjusted in height by a servo motor. The top die is buffered from the ram with a special hydraulic cushion to compensate for little variations in the thickness of the blank. Together, the two dies make it possible to attain extreme precision in the angles bent - down to 0.25 degrees. This type of tooling is expensive though.
Elastomer bending is especially interesting. Here, the bottom die isn't steel, but a flat piece of synthetic material which serves to wrap the blank around the punch, as it comes down. The resulting bend radius will be very close to the punch radius, as there is little springback. Also, the elastomer pad does not mar or scratch the blank.
These are some of the techniques that keep press brakes relevant in today's sheet metal fabrication work.
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The design of mechanical diggers has evolved since their creation in the late 19th century. As more tasks are carried out by heavy machinery and the manufacturing processes improved, the ability to tailor the attachments to specific jobs became more elaborate. The excavator bucket attaches to the end of the boom (the articulated arm protruding from the front or rear of a machine). Nowadays there are several commonly used excavator buckets which are used to perform particular tasks.
General Purpose
This design is intended to be useful for most excavation tasks. These buckets normally have teeth at the front which help to get purchase underneath the material that needs to be moved. This allows the bucket to cut through earth more easily than a flat fronted excavator bucket by dragging it toward the machine.
Ditch Maintenance
These excavator buckets are intended to move loose surfaces and carve gradients into landscapes. They normally have a straight front edge which makes them ideal for clearing away the surface rather than cutting through it. Due to the flat front it makes this kind of bucket unsuitable for heavy digging. They will also normally be fitted with drainage holes which reduce the weight and make them easier to work with in areas where water may have collected.
Ribbed Bucket
This type of excavator bucket is specifically designed to work with backhoe machinery which drags the bucket along the ground behind the vehicle. The outer of the bucket is fitted with wear strips which give it the ribbed effect for which it was named. These offer a surface which is designed to be worn from dragging. These plates can then be replaced which extends the working life of the bucket. As these buckets can be used on a multitude of surfaces they normally have teeth similar to the general purpose buckets.
Dedicated Bucket
These excavator buckets also have teeth, like the general purpose buckets and replaceable wear plates like the ribbed bucket.
Grading Bucket
This type of excavator bucket has a sharp edge with no teeth which make them ideal for carving gradients. The main difference between these and ditch maintenance buckets are the drainage holes which make up a larger area on the grading buckets which further reduces the weight.
Grain / Potato Shovel
This type of excavator bucket aims to reduce potential damage to crops during transit by having a rounded leading edge. They may also include wear strips from the toeplate to the back of the shovel which can be replaced to prolong the service life.
Rehandling Bucket
This type of excavator bucket is normally used for loading tasks. The leading edge may have a drilled toeplate which allows teeth to be fitted for tasks which require the bucket to cut through the material. Rolled backs make it easy to release the material.
Quick Hitch Mechanisms
Most excavator buckets can be used with quick hitch mechanisms which allow the operator to interchange attachments quickly. They are secured to the dipper arm with two pins which can either be released manually by the operator or remotely with a hydraulic ram. These mechanisms enable operators to change attachment more frequently but have also caused many accidents resulting in serious or fatal injuries. The majority of these accidents have been attributed to semi-automatic systems which require a pin to be removed manually before the operator released the bucket remotely.
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In the past decade the prices of oil and gas have reached an all-time high. This has led to the increase in the use of alternative fuels. One such alternative fuel that has gained popularity in recent times is 'firewood'. Firewood is cheap and cost effective, burning firewood is carbon neutral and it is easily available. It is because of these reasons that a lot of people have started using firewood in their homes, to provide heat, instead of gas or oil. To use firewood in an open fire or wood burner, the wood needs to be cut into a specific size. Cutting firewood can be a tedious and physically exhausting task. There is however a machine available that makes the task a lot easier. This machine is called a 'Log Splitter'. In this article we will find out what it is, what are its advantages, and which is the best one for you.
What is a log splitter? To put it simply, it is a mechanical axe. It is designed to split logs faster than a conventional axe. It makes the task of splitting logs a lot easier and safer. They work by using a motor powered hydraulic pump to exert pressure against the log with the help of a metal wedge, this forces the log to split open. They are very useful as they split logs into the exact size necessary for various wood burners around the house. They are easy to use and not overly complicated.
How can you choose the right log splitter? There are a number of makes and models available in the market. This can get very confusing for a prospective buyer. The important thing to keep in mind is that there are three types: Hydraulic, Electric and Gas Log Splitters. How fast and how powerful it can be depends on the splitting force (RAM) that it can exert on the log. For domestic use one with a RAM between 10 to 15 tons is sufficient, but for professional use on a larger scale one capable of exerting between 25-40 tons of pressure will be required.
To make sure you choose the right log splitter, make a list of your requirements and then match it to the benefits of the machine. If you require one for home use that requires little or no manual labor; then you should get an electric or gas powered one that has a RAM of 10-15 tons. If you would like to move it to your area of work and store it in a different area then you should get one that has large transport wheels. This will make it more convenient to use.
Log splitters are extremely useful and can help save a lot of time and energy. When choosing one make sure you keep in mind all your requirements and then buy the machine that is best capable of fulfilling them.
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